Joining Ropes for a Rappel

[jbliss]

This is my take on joining two ropes to be used in a rappel (presumably greater than 30 meters) and would like some feedback as this very well may be in error.

If there is no concern about the rope getting stuck when being pulled through, use a double or triple fisherman's knot...I usually use a triple.

If there is concern about the rope getting stuck on pull through, use and overhand knot with a second overhand knot on one of the tails, and leave plenty of tail, at least one foot. I have not actually done this as I don't trust this knot. However, in reading some of the pull data at Black Diamond and speaking with many climbers, and reading some of the common texts, it seems that the knot is safe. It still scares me.

I guess the thinking is that if the rope gets stuck, there is a fair chance you may be injured trying to retrieve it.

Any thoughts? Is this a reasonable approach?

jbliss

[gavc0]

Guys just wanted to let you know that I have only ever used an "overhand" knot to join two ropes together to abseil off. What I do make sure of is that there is atleast 1 metre of tail so that the knot will be ok. I have used this on multiple abseils as a form of retreat from many major crags in the UK and the Alps.
The good thing with the overhenad is that it rolls through most obsticles. Personaly I have no problems using it.
Cheers
Gav :cool:

[DonnieB]

I have been using the overhand also w/ plenty of tail but for ropes of different diameter like linking retreival webbing to your standard rappel rope I use the figure eight knot and it has worked awesome.

If you don't know how to tie one ya better study up before getting into trouble ;)

[Riversong]

There has been a lot of controversy about the "European Death Knot", some accidents, and some testing. But the offset overhand bend is commonly used. There have been more problems with the offset figure-8 bend. Some prefer to back up the offset overhand with a second offset overhand (on both strands).

As far as the fisherman's (or overhand bend), there is no need to use a triple except in joining high-strength cords for slings or cordelletes - a double overhand bend for joining climbing rope, properly tied and set and with a hand's width of tail, will never fail you.

Check out these sites:

Chockstone (http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/JoinRopes.htm)
Needlesports (http://www.needlesports.com/advice/abseilknots.htm)
Tom Moyer (http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html)

- Robert

[mtngoat59102]

I have defaulted to the use of a double-overhand almost exclusively, as testing has shown it to be perfectly safe if tied correctly. fisherman/eights can be such a bugger to untie once weighted tightly. The use of the overhand has become more an issue of convenience for me personally as the knot is very easy to tie and untie. Just tie it CORRECTLY. :eek: