Figure 8 Block

[gootwan]

In a previous thread it was suggested that when using a figure 8 device as a block it is safest to clip a carabiner into the small hole to help prevent the contingency from releasing. It was also suggested that clipping the biner to the pull strand also adds safety.

My question is: what about clipping the biner to the rappel strand? The advantage seems to be that not only have you added security to the block (in light of the recent Heaps tragedy), but also that the "last man" does not have to clean or re-rig anything. He/she can just rappel then pull. Am I wrong about the advantages? And what about the disadvantages?

Thanks!

Jordan

[catware11]

It is not possible for the lock-off bight to undo if the 'biner is clipped to the pull strand. It still is not possible for it to undo if clipped to the rappel strand, true, but if left clipped to that side when pulling the rope, the block would be linked to the rappel strand, possibly complicating the pull. When descending a single blocked rope, I always alternately pull both ends just to double check which is the rap side vs. the pull side. Clipping the biner to the rap side may make this more difficult to visualize.

Never, EVER use something as a rap ring that the blocking 'biner (or 8) can fit through. However if this is unwisely done, then it does appear (from playing with this configuration just now) that clipping to the rap side would keep the block from pulling down should it go through the ring. At that point, though, an enormous mistake / oversight was already made. There are other, far more appropriate ways of rigging the anchor if a person finds themself without a suitable rap ring, for instance.

Just my first impressions. Correct me if I'm wrong, ye canyon god(esse)s.

[gootwan]

Sounds like, all things considered, clipping to the rappel strand would only make things more complicated, with little to no benefit.

Thanks Cat,

Jordan

[mtngoat59102]

My question is: what about clipping the biner to the rappel strand? The advantage seems to be that not only have you added security to the block (in light of the recent Heaps tragedy), but also that the "last man" does not have to clean or re-rig anything.

If you are using a figure 8, biner or a knot to block a rap line, DO NOT use a block that can physically fit through the rapid or wahtever your rope is running through. Once you start addidng security to your security you can, in effect, just make it more complicated. Simple, practicle and safe solutions are best and I sense the possibility to start obsesing about blocks in light of the recent tragedy in Heaps.