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View Full Version : pros and cons of dynamic 1/2 ropes for canyoneering



paulsailer
05-09-2005, 10:27 AM
I have some used 1/2 dynamic climbing ropes (thinner ropes intended to be used in pairs in trad climbing ) that are in good condition, very little use, no falls, no damage to sheath,

I am interested in knowing the pros and cons of using these for canyoneering

and what if any peoples experience has been in using them

What I like about these is how lightweight they are, and of course since I already have them, they are "free"

Possible uses I could foresee using them for are main rope, backup rope, cut up into smaller ropes for handlines or short raps

hank_moon
05-09-2005, 12:12 PM
pros:

lightweight, compact when dry
generally good handling


cons:

stretchy/dynamic*
low abrasion resistance
heavy when wet
longer drying time

I would only use a half rope for canyoneering if the rope is unfit for climbing. Good way to recycle old climbing ropes. That said, a half rope should be used with extra care to avoid damaging the rope. Avoid long drops. Try to keep it dry. Watch for core shots. Stick to known canyons with known conditions. Keep in mind that half ropes are easily damaged, so avoid using them (or any dynamic rope) in situations where a coreshot or other sheath damage could cause difficulties (e.g. long, wet, multirap canyons).

Finally, you should ignore this post. If you know what you are doing, you don't need the info. If you need the info, it is incomplete. Seek professional training, higher powers, kung fu masters and burning bushes before attempting to use half ropes in canyons.

* Generally speaking, stretch isn't a plus. However, it can be a big plus if anchors are marginal or lead climbing is required.

rcwild
05-09-2005, 01:40 PM
Well put, Hank. Not much to add ...

Nylon core with nylon sheath. Nylon is weaker when wet.

Skinny ropes, whether dynamic or static, provide smaller safety margin.

Dynamic (stretchy) rope will be subjected to more abrasion during rappel. It is virtually impossible to avoid some amount of "bounce" while rappelling. The more you bounce, the more the rope will stretch. The more it stretches, the more it will rub on edges.

Per Hank's post; the longer the rappel, the greater the stretch distance with each bounce.