rcwild
07-01-2005, 09:26 AM
Two groups of canyoneers were in a Class C Arizona canyon. One section of this canyon involves going upstream through a very narrow section, climbing above a waterfall, rappelling through the waterfall, then going downstream back through the narrow section. In the narrow section there is a large boulder against one wall that creates a challenging 10-foot climbing problem. Canyoneers typically spot each other while climbing and down-climbing here.
The first group had finished the rappel and was moving back downstream. When the last member of the group arrived at the down-climb there was no one there to spot him. Confident in his climbing skills, he attempted the down-climb without a spotter. Part way down he slipped. His right foot hit a submerged rock and twisted to the outside. He was able to hobble out of the narrow section to reconnect with his group.
When the second group caught up, the leader wrapped the injured ankle with a SAM Splint and Ace Bandage. The majority of the group was instructed to continue down canyon to avoid a bottleneck at the next rappel. Several strong hikers were held back to assist the injured person. With assistance, he was able to complete the canyon. X-rays revealed the ankle was broken.
ANALYSIS AND LESSONS LEARNED:
Canyoneers often move through a canyon at their own individual paces and fail to consider that those behind them might require assistance. This is especially true toward the end of the day when people are tired, cold and anxious to get out. This situation was probably exacerbated because there were two groups in the canyon, so members of the first group were unclear who was in their group.
1) Professional guides use two tools to help avoid situations like this: (a) lead and sweep guides, and (b) head counts. Leader is out in front, sweep brings up the rear. All other members in the party stay between the leader and sweep. It would have been the sweep's responsibility to stay at the down-climb until everyone in the group was accounted for. When the group got out of the narrow section to collect their gear, they could have done a head count. Doing so would have revealed they were missing one person.
2) Relieve your spotter/belayer. When you finish a down-climb or rappel, take over for the person who spotted or belayed you. Stay there so you can spot or belay the next person.
3) In this situation the climber was confident in his own skills, so it may have been appropriate for him to attempt the problem without a spotter. If he had any doubts, he could have waited for a member of the second group to assist.
4) Sometimes the strong/fast members of a group charge ahead at their own pace leaving others behind. If a problem develops in the back of the group, it is much easier to address with sufficient resources. It often makes more sense for the strong/fast hikers to stay in the rear, rather than out in front.
The first group had finished the rappel and was moving back downstream. When the last member of the group arrived at the down-climb there was no one there to spot him. Confident in his climbing skills, he attempted the down-climb without a spotter. Part way down he slipped. His right foot hit a submerged rock and twisted to the outside. He was able to hobble out of the narrow section to reconnect with his group.
When the second group caught up, the leader wrapped the injured ankle with a SAM Splint and Ace Bandage. The majority of the group was instructed to continue down canyon to avoid a bottleneck at the next rappel. Several strong hikers were held back to assist the injured person. With assistance, he was able to complete the canyon. X-rays revealed the ankle was broken.
ANALYSIS AND LESSONS LEARNED:
Canyoneers often move through a canyon at their own individual paces and fail to consider that those behind them might require assistance. This is especially true toward the end of the day when people are tired, cold and anxious to get out. This situation was probably exacerbated because there were two groups in the canyon, so members of the first group were unclear who was in their group.
1) Professional guides use two tools to help avoid situations like this: (a) lead and sweep guides, and (b) head counts. Leader is out in front, sweep brings up the rear. All other members in the party stay between the leader and sweep. It would have been the sweep's responsibility to stay at the down-climb until everyone in the group was accounted for. When the group got out of the narrow section to collect their gear, they could have done a head count. Doing so would have revealed they were missing one person.
2) Relieve your spotter/belayer. When you finish a down-climb or rappel, take over for the person who spotted or belayed you. Stay there so you can spot or belay the next person.
3) In this situation the climber was confident in his own skills, so it may have been appropriate for him to attempt the problem without a spotter. If he had any doubts, he could have waited for a member of the second group to assist.
4) Sometimes the strong/fast members of a group charge ahead at their own pace leaving others behind. If a problem develops in the back of the group, it is much easier to address with sufficient resources. It often makes more sense for the strong/fast hikers to stay in the rear, rather than out in front.