Rigging a Figure 8 to Ascend

[rcwild]

Submitted by Clark Kogan

I forgot how to rig the figure-8 for ascending mode. I repeled off a bridge and ascended back up in regular mode, but I slipped a lot on the way up, so if anyone could explain it with words, that would be great.

[rcwild]

Clark,

I'll attempt to describe the system in writing, with the caveat that you will practice at a short height until you are certain you understand.

1. Clip your harness carabiner through the big hole of your figure eight.
2. Poke a bight of rope up from the bottom of the big hole of your figure eight.
3. Give the rope a half-twist, then pass the bight over the small end of your figure eight.

NOTE: If correct to this point, the rope going up should be on top, pushing the lower strand of rope against the neck of your figure eight.

4. Rig an ascender with a foot loop on the rope above your figure eight.
5. As you stand up in your foot loop, pull up on the loose rope hanging below your figure eight to pull slack through.
6. Rest your weight on your figure eight.
7. Push your foot loop ascender higher on the rope.
8. Repeat steps 5 through 7.

NOTE: This works more efficiently on some figure eights than others. The most efficient seem to be the squarish-shaped ones made by Petzl and SMC.

Hope this helps.

[FredinUtah]

I was just watching the video on the Totem and saw the stop & go rigging and then using that set up as an ascender. I can only say, brilliant!

Up to this point I have been using a prussik for climbing up ropes. I ran to the garage and rigged an 8 to give it a try. WOW!!! It works great!

Now for some questions, please.
I do not recall having seen this anywhere else, are there any safety concerns or caveats vs using a prussick for climbing a rope?

I also tried the Stop N Go with the same rig & 8, it also worked like a charm so, why not use this as variabl friction rappel set up?

Same questions, any safety concerns or caveats vs using an ATC, SBG, 8 ?

Too hard on the rope?
Too much heat?
Cross loading the beiner?

I really like both set ups, especially for ascending. I am a bit of a minimilist & love the idea of a peice of equipment being used for more than just one thing.

So, barring any negative's, my 8 is a back up rappel device, a block for removable rigging & an ascender. That is very cool!

Thanks for your help/comments.

Fred

[thafen]

I also tried the Stop N Go with the same rig & 8, it also worked like a charm so, why not use this as variabl friction rappel set up?
The nice thing about the Totem is the extra length when doing stop and go for the leverage of getting it started once stopped. Did you use an actual 8? Just curious.

[FredinUtah]

Yes , I used an actual 8. It is just playing in my garage, but it worked like a charm. I am not sure how it might heat up on a real rappel or what other things I may have overlooked.

Hence my questions.