Canyon Quickdraw

[rcwild]

Similar to a climbing quickdraw, but using locking biners on each end. I normally use a Petzl OK (locking oval) on one end and a Petzl Attache (locking HMS) on the other. I recently replaced the Attache with a twisted Stubai HMS. Works great in keeping releasable hitches away from the rock.

My canyon quickdraw has a myriad of uses, but one of the slickest is in setting up a quick raising system.

(1) Clip the locking oval to the anchor. Attach a Tibloc to the weighted rope and clip into it with the HMS biner. IMPORTANT: Be sure to clip into the Tibloc across its backbone, capturing both the Tibloc AND THE ROPE. This is different than Petzl shows in its catalog, but critical in this technique.

(2) Install a second Tibloc and biner on the weighted rope below the first one. This will be used for the pull line of your Z-Rig.

(3a) If you are using a contingency anchor (i.e. munter mule), release it. Lower the load onto the canyon quickdraw and remove the munter mule.

(3b) If you are using a block, you will need to set up a quick z-rig to raise just enough to remove the block. Use the unweighted rope (back side of block) to pull. Lower the quickdraw Tibloc a few inches so it takes the load. Remove the block.

(3c) If you are using a "toss and go" ... Never mind. Nobody uses that anymore.

(4) The load is now being held by the quickdraw. The rope running up through rap rings is slack. Grab the rope between the quickdraw Tibloc and the rap rings. Pull it down and clip into the lower Tibloc biner. You have a Z-Rig.

The HMS biner on the quickdraw is now functioning as a pulley and the quickdraw Tibloc functions as a ratchet. The rope is still running through the rap rings, which can be used as a change of direction pulley if desired.

Very simple system. With practice, you can set it up in less than 30 seconds.

[rcwild]

<img src=http://www.canyoneering.net/content_img/cyn_qdraw.jpg align=left>Illustration of a canyon quickdraw. This one made with a Metolius Matrix carabiner on top and a Stubai 3D carabiner on the bottom. Also works well with a Petzl OK on top and a Petzl Attache on the bottom.

Other uses:

(1) Can be used as a short tether in combination with a longer one to function like a 2-strand "cows tail".

(2) Can be used to extend an anchor away from the rock. Especially useful with contingency anchors.

(3) Can be used to set up systems to change abrasion point on rope. Illustrations to follow in another post.

[rcwild]

<img src=http://www.canyoneering.net/content_img/rig_munter.jpg hspace=8 vspace=4 align=left>In this photo, the canyon quickdraw is used to set up a system for changing the abrasion point on the rope. The rope is first threaded through the rappel ring. Then a munter hitch is tied -- with both strands of rope -- onto the bottom carabiner of the quickdraw. The munter is backed up with a mule hitch.

Each time a person rappels, the mule is released to allow a foot or two of rope to be pulled through the munter. Then the mule is re-tied to secure the rope for the next person's rappel.

NOTE: The loop of rope on the left was kept small for the photo. In practice, this loop provides the extra rope that is pulled through for each rappeller. If you wish to move the abrasion point 2 feet for each person, and there are 5 people, the loop must consist of at least 10 feet of rope.

When all but the last person is down, the munter and mule are untied, and the canyon quickdraw is removed.

[rcwild]

<img src=http://www.canyoneering.net/content_img/rig_shunt.jpg hspace=8 vspace=4 align=left>This photo illustrates the same type of system for changing the abrasion point on the rope using a Petzl Shunt. It is much more efficient than the munter/mule.

[rcwild]

Ran across a couple web sites recently that picked up on the canyon quickdraw idea, but photos showed two locking D carabiners. Canyon quickdraws are much more versatile if one of the carabiners used is an HMS (pear-shaped).

[rcwild]

Experimenting with a new canyon quickdraw setup. Replacing the express sling with a 24-inch nylon runner and securing it to the upper carabiner with a Petzl String. Leaving the HMS biner off when I carry it (easy enough to clip it in when needed).

The longer runner will provide more versatility. For many standard canyon quickdraw techniques, the runner can be folded in half so it's 12 inches long.

Working on some additional uses for the longer version. Will report soon.

[ratagonia]

Experimenting with a new canyon quickdraw setup. Replacing the express sling with a 24-inch nylon runner and securing it to the upper carabiner with a Petzl String. Leaving the HMS biner off when I carry it (easy enough to clip it in when needed).

The longer runner will provide more versatility. For many standard canyon quickdraw techniques, the runner can be folded in half so it's 12 inches long.

Working on some additional uses for the longer version. Will report soon.

Jeez, Rich. And I just added the (now) 'old style' to the Canyoneering USA website:

http://canyoneeringusa.com/shop/view_product.php?product=IML%20CQD

Tom

[rcwild]

Put your entrepreneur hat back on, Tom. Now you can offer your customers two options.

[brucefrombryce]

So what was the result of using the 24" runner?

[jeflevin]

The photos show a doubled rope being used - if this is the case, why not just move the rope through the maillon a few inches each time? This assumes there is extra rope at the bottom, but this would also have to be the case in the examples shown, as some rope was pulled up to set up the system. It shouldn't take much anyway, as serious abrasion points are usually localized to just a few inches.
- Jef

[rcwild]

The photos show a doubled rope being used - if this is the case, why not just move the rope through the maillon a few inches each time? This assumes there is extra rope at the bottom, but this would also have to be the case in the examples shown, as some rope was pulled up to set up the system. It shouldn't take much anyway, as serious abrasion points are usually localized to just a few inches.
- Jef

You can certainly do it that way, Jeff. But you'll be losing one advantage gained with the other systems. Even though you will be rappelling on two strands of rope, if one breaks you're goin' bye bye. With the other systems, if one strand breaks, you are still on the other one.