rcwild
04-11-2004, 10:07 PM
How does one go about belaying a person to a rappel anchor when there is a large amount of exposure on the route to the anchor?
There are several options, depending on the situation. Two examples will help illustrate a couple of the techniques.
One example is Salome Canyon in Arizona. Getting to the "normal" rappel anchor requires a traverse across a ledge above the waterfall. There is a permanent anchor at the start of the traverse. Thread one end of your rope directly through this anchor and tie it to your harness. Rig the other side of the rope in your rappelling device. Traverse the ledge as though you are rappelling horizontally on one strand. Because the rope will also be running through the anchor like a pulley, you will feel quite a bit of drag.
NOTE: The first person across will be at risk of a pendulum fall into the waterfall, so it should be someone competent.
When you reach the rappel anchor, untie the end of the rope from your harness and tie it to the anchor. Remove the rope from your rappelling device and tie a figure eight on a bight in the rope and attach it to the anchor with a carabiner. There should now be two strands of rope running between the first anchor and the rappel anchor. Subsequent members of your party should clip into both strands with a carabiner, at the end of a runner attached to their harnesses, then traverse. Use the other end of your rope for the rappel so people are not all clipped to the rappel anchor at one time. When you are ready to retrieve your rope, simply untie the end of rope from the rappel anchor and pull through the first anchor.
Another example is the approach to the rappel anchor above the Cathedral in Pine Creek, Zion National Park. The fixed anchor was located to protect it from flowing water and to simplify rope retrieval, but the approach is a bit unnerving for some.
At the top of the previous short drop, there is usually a jammed log. This could be used as an anchor to set up the same system as described for Salome.
Another option here will be to set up a simple belay. Tie the end of the rope to the person moving toward the rappel anchor. Position yourself upstream, anywhere that you can sit down with your feet out in front of you, braced against the rock. Rig the rope on your belay device as you would for a climber and feed out rope as the person advances toward the anchor. If needed, have another person sit behind you, holding your harness for additional security.
NOTE: The last person will not have the benefit of a roped belay to the anchor, so it should be someone competent. However, a previous member of your party can stay at the rappel anchor, clipped in with a runner, and position themselves to "spot" the last person as they approach the anchor.
There are several options, depending on the situation. Two examples will help illustrate a couple of the techniques.
One example is Salome Canyon in Arizona. Getting to the "normal" rappel anchor requires a traverse across a ledge above the waterfall. There is a permanent anchor at the start of the traverse. Thread one end of your rope directly through this anchor and tie it to your harness. Rig the other side of the rope in your rappelling device. Traverse the ledge as though you are rappelling horizontally on one strand. Because the rope will also be running through the anchor like a pulley, you will feel quite a bit of drag.
NOTE: The first person across will be at risk of a pendulum fall into the waterfall, so it should be someone competent.
When you reach the rappel anchor, untie the end of the rope from your harness and tie it to the anchor. Remove the rope from your rappelling device and tie a figure eight on a bight in the rope and attach it to the anchor with a carabiner. There should now be two strands of rope running between the first anchor and the rappel anchor. Subsequent members of your party should clip into both strands with a carabiner, at the end of a runner attached to their harnesses, then traverse. Use the other end of your rope for the rappel so people are not all clipped to the rappel anchor at one time. When you are ready to retrieve your rope, simply untie the end of rope from the rappel anchor and pull through the first anchor.
Another example is the approach to the rappel anchor above the Cathedral in Pine Creek, Zion National Park. The fixed anchor was located to protect it from flowing water and to simplify rope retrieval, but the approach is a bit unnerving for some.
At the top of the previous short drop, there is usually a jammed log. This could be used as an anchor to set up the same system as described for Salome.
Another option here will be to set up a simple belay. Tie the end of the rope to the person moving toward the rappel anchor. Position yourself upstream, anywhere that you can sit down with your feet out in front of you, braced against the rock. Rig the rope on your belay device as you would for a climber and feed out rope as the person advances toward the anchor. If needed, have another person sit behind you, holding your harness for additional security.
NOTE: The last person will not have the benefit of a roped belay to the anchor, so it should be someone competent. However, a previous member of your party can stay at the rappel anchor, clipped in with a runner, and position themselves to "spot" the last person as they approach the anchor.