Macrame/Dead Man's Handle

[harold]

I have seen a critique of the Macrame retrievable anchor on a forum at http://www.thebluespace.com

It is an amazing insight into this hitch and worth a look at as it shows a different point of view than on the ACA website.

I wonder if this hitch has ever been tested by governing bodies or gear companies. If so does anyone point me to the the test statistics for failure of this hitch in waterfalls?

Harold - Australia

[Antonio Vega]

climbed a lot in the greater ranges and i'm familiar with it but not something that i'd feel particularly useful or would ever use. ( not so many trees over 5,000ms i guess). it does seem there could be a very real risk of darwin being proved right yet again. does anybody actually use this? that could account for any lack of test data.
just seems too liable to undo on its own account for my liking..i wonder if this is a case where a technique suitable for one environment is recommended for areas where it is eminently not suitable to a lack of lateral thinking? not good in water or canyons where weather isn't absolutely perfect. a fair weather knot?.....
as with many things it's obviously perfectly safe...until it goes wrong.
:eek:

[rcwild]

This is from the ACA's web site:

"Retrievable anchor systems should not be adopted as your primary anchor systems. Knowing how to set one up can get you out of a jam if you find yourself short of webbing during a descent, but there are significant risks."

"CAUTION: Macrame, OmniSling and Bowline Variation retrievable anchor systems are RELEASABLE. Accidental release during rappel may result in serious injury or death. The release mechanism of these systems should only be set for the last person down -- the most experienced person in the group. All other members of the group should rappel on a fixed rope."

Not sure why someone on the Blue Space web site stated that the ACA promotes it or suggests it as a good method of rope retrieval. I think the wording on the ACA's web site makes it very clear that it should only be used to "get you out of a jam". Also very clear that if it is used, it should only be used for the last person down.

Amazing insight? No. Amazing ignorance. The anonymous writer on the Blue Space web site obviously knows nothing about the macrame's use. Suggesting that wind bashing the hitch on the rock can easily release it or that moving water could drag on the dead end and pull the loops through is just silly. It has been tested. The force required to release the macrame after it is unloaded (after rappelling on it) is approximately 110 pounds. Wind bashing the hitch on the rock or water dragging on the dead end will not release it, even after it is unloaded. What typhoon wind will be capable of bashing the hitch on the rock while it is loaded?

People who have actually used it here in the U.S. complain that it requires too much force to release and retrieve after it is unloaded. People who have never used it express concerns that it might accidentally release while fully loaded. This makes no sense.

If that writer knows of any instance where the macrame has ever failed when used correctly, I hope he/she will provide the details. I have only heard about a couple failures (no first-hand information, just rumors). Each was due to the user rigging on the wrong strand of rope. Tube-type rappelling devices (i.e. ATC) have been involved in several accidents due to the user failing to insert both strands of rope in their carabiners. Should all tube-type devices be avoided because there is a possibility of user error?

Sports like canyoning and climbing are not without risk. To insist that one technique or another should NEVER be used because something MIGHT go wrong should lead the reader to conclude they should just stay at home where it is safe. NEVER use a figure eight knot because someone MIGHT tie it wrong. NEVER use any type of rappelling device because you MIGHT accidentally let go with your brake hand and lose control.

The best canyoning schools in the world ALL teach using contingency anchors (releasable) when rigging rope for rappels in water current. Follow the advice given on Blue Space and you should NEVER use such a contingency anchor because it MIGHT be released accidentally.

Bottom line -- if you are not 100% sure of your ability to use a technique correctly, don't use it. I've used the macrame dozens of times and will continue to use it when it is appropriate to the situation.

[TheBlueSpace]

Dear Rich

Glad we can shout at each other on email!

I had a look at your forum - not familiar with the names. And just for the record where can we find the test data?

Whatever we think about this hitch it is important to put ALL views across on forums and let folks make up their own mind.

And to set the record straight - I would never use this hitch in a waterfall - you would. I would use it at 7000m if desperate not to saw through the ice with the rope or sling.

I abseil on double ropes - we both know each other, both limped into a canyon in Spain together last year, both have very strong ideas and both hate to be proved wrong.

But it does make good entertainment on the net!

Ben Gilbert
for and on behalf of TheBlueSpace Adventure Travel Guides' Co-Operative.

[rcwild]

Howdy Ben,

I agree that the internet is a great place to share views. But I also believe that it is important to make clear the difference between views that are based on facts and those that are based solely on opinions. Opinions cannot prove someone wrong, only facts can.

For the record -- I use the macrame when it is appropriate to the situation at hand, but it is rare. When I introduced this hitch to canyoneers here in the States, some saw it as a cool way to avoid using webbing altogether and started using it on virtually every rappel. A private school here even started teaching it to beginners. This lead me to change the wording on our techniques pages to make the warnings more clear and to emphasize that it should only be used in special situations and ONLY by the last person down -- the most competent person in the group.

I guess we also disagree about rappelling on double ropes in waterfalls. I believe in using contingency anchors in waterfalls ... We'll save that discussion for a separate thread. ;)

[rcwild]

Macrame: How to Tie It (http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1558)

[rambler-joe]

In good old Aussie vernacular, this whole site is "bloody marvelous".
Thanks for the info on the macrame.:D
RC

[rcwild]

No worries, mate. We aim to please.