Rope Eating Crack in Lower Water Holes

[thegrappler]

Ok, after lot of thought and reading about all the epics in Lower Water Holes, i decided to fix the crack issue. Some of you may not agree with this, but this is the best solution for all the problems. Also will minimize the epics and rescues off the big wall!

About 30ft below the chain anchors on the second section of the big drop i placed a baby angle with a quick link attached to a draw. This is to be used as a directional (like climber would use when top ropeing!) . Simply clip the main line into the directional (easy to reach) and it keeps you out of the crack and drops you right next to the ledge. The pull is simple and clean as long as you take the stopper knot out of your rope!!!!

Leave this piton and chop the useless bolts on the left below the chain anchors!! With multiple people this is just a simple deviation. Those who are on this wall should have enough base knowledge of rigging to understand how a directional works. If not then they should not be there in the first place!!!

Was just in water holes the other week, very fun! will all the keepers filled and mud everywhere, some of the most disgusting water i've been in. Evidence of recent flash.

Have fun

[84x4bronco]

I dont understand... the main reasons ropes stick in waterholes is because people either-

A.)drop the retrieval line in the crack

B.)drop the rappel line in the crack

C.) excessively twist ropes above the small ledge where it is impossible to view from the bottom of the 300' section.

adding a baby angle for a DIRECTIONAL may lead others to believe it is a PRIMARY anchor that you have now placed. hope you placed it well...

would you hang off of that single piton? for 270'?

the useless bolts on the left are adequate and above all, redundant and safe... both something i care to establish on long drawn out rappels where the employment of a 300' rope is necessary. ANOTHER SIMPLE method that does not involve the placement of more garbage is to rappel out of the bag and have the final member of your group rappel down past the crack before deploying the retrieval line.

cross posting on Facebook, Yahoo, Bogley, the ACA, and other outdoor beta forums might be a good idea. also include HAZ, Let the Navajo know you placed an anchor, etc...

[thegrappler]

Why even entertain the risk of the ropes getting stuck??? Why even carry a 300ft rope? Its not needed. A 200 works just fine and minimizes the risk of the common phenomenon of out of control rappellers on skinny line! The chains outside the crack should be used, not the bolts for the
300fter... speaking with other experts.... their opnion is that they should be chopped.... well thats one opnion.. can go either way. The baby angle is great, only thing to do better is a glue in. It is much more secure than a threaded bolt in that sandstone. I would hang on it all day!
People freak out from a baby angle, mostly because of lack of knowlege.

The dray is placed in such a way, that it cant be mistaken for an anchor. I placed it thinking of idiots with little experience. And did feel it was necessary to let others know the reason for it. If a person in that canyon cant distinguish a directional from an anchor than they shouldnt be there, it would be better they get their ropes stuck in the crack and be rescued... this way they might seek more training before attempting a canyon above their skill level

[canyonassassin]

I think my mind is melting