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Old 03-05-2005, 08:53 AM
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Contingency Anchors

The idea behind a contingency anchor is to provide a releasable system in case someone gets stuck on the rope during rappel. When rappelling in a waterfall, landing in current or in a hydraulic at the base of a waterfall, it is always advisable to use a releasable system.

The photo illustrates a contingency anchor using a munter-mule combination. The munter is the hitch that is tied onto the carabiner. The mule is the hitch tied onto the rope just below the munter. In an emergency, the mule can be untied like the bow on a shoe lace. Once the mule is released, it is important to maintain control of the rope so you can lower the person to the bottom. The munter provides the friction necessary for a controled lower.



Once everyone else is down, the last person unties the munter-mule, retrieves the carabiner and rappels on both strands or sets up a block and raps on one strand.

IMPORTANT:
Note how the rope is passed through the rappel ring. This is done before tying the munter-mule, but only so the rope is pre-threaded and ready to go for the last person down. Once the rope is threaded through the ring, make sure you tie the munter-mule on the rappel strand of the rope. Focus on the two strands of rope coming out of the bottom of the carabiner -- the rappel strand and the release strand. Ignore the strand coming out the other side of the rappel ring.

Safety Knot
The loop created by the mule hitch should be secured to avoid accidental release. One simple method is to tie an overhand knot onto the rappel strand of rope using the loop. In an emergency, untie the overhand, then release the mule hitch.



Safety Carabiner
Another method of securing the loop is to use a "safety biner". Clip a carabiner onto the anchor, then clip the loop into the carabiner. It is not necessary to lock the carabiner. In an emergency, remove the loop from the carabiner, then release the mule hitch.



Two Half Hitches
Some people say that using a mule hitch to back up a munter might create a problem. When the rappel rope is weighted, the loop of the mule hitch might roll as it is released. If it does, it might create a tight twist that cannot be pulled through.



I have never had any difficulty releasing a mule, so I suspect the problem might have something to do with how the sheath of the rope is braided. Some ropes may be more prone to this problem than others.

If you discover that you have difficulty releasing a mule hitch with your rope, you can use two half hitches instead as illustrated in the photo. While one mule hitch is secure, one half hitch is not. You must use two.
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:47 PM
dccampen dccampen is offline
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Why do you use the term "contingency anchor"? I see nothing but a load releasing hitch and nothing to do with the anchor.
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:58 PM
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Terminology

I learned this system via the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) back in the mid-90s and kept their term for it.

Symantics. Some people include the anchor and the way the rope is rigged to it as "the anchor". Personally, I classify the releasable system as part of the rigging, not the anchor, but I've been calling it a contingency anchor for so long ...

Communication is simple when I'm talking to most guides. I say "contingency anchor" and they immediately know what I mean.
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Old 07-07-2005, 09:41 AM
ratagonia ratagonia is offline
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You say Contingency, I say Contingen-sigh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dccampen
Why do you use the term "contingency anchor"? I see nothing but a load releasing hitch and nothing to do with the anchor.
By using a load-releasing hitch, in the case of a problem on the rope, the hitch can be released and the stuck rappeller lowered. Thus, it allows dealing with contingencies.

In Class C canyon, with flowing water, having someone stuck on the rope in a waterfall or stuck on the rope in a hydraulic is the nightmare. The contingency anchor system was developed for dealing with these problems. It also works well when someone gets their hair or shirt jammed in their rappel device. The leader, managing the top of the drop, pulls the hitch and lowers the victim. Quick, effective. In a guiding situation, makes for a big tip.

Tom
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Old 07-07-2005, 09:43 AM
ratagonia ratagonia is offline
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Practice Practice Practice

Nice pics, Rich.

I have found the Munter-Mule peculiarly awkward to tie at first. As usual, the best way to learn it well is to practice, practice, practice.

Tom
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Old 07-07-2005, 10:12 AM
dccampen dccampen is offline
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Quote:
By using a load-releasing hitch, in the case of a problem on the rope, the hitch can be released and the stuck rappeller lowered. Thus, it allows dealing with contingencies.

In Class C canyon, with flowing water, having someone stuck on the rope in a waterfall or stuck on the rope in a hydraulic is the nightmare. The contingency anchor system was developed for dealing with these problems. It also works well when someone gets their hair or shirt jammed in their rappel device. The leader, managing the top of the drop, pulls the hitch and lowers the victim. Quick, effective. In a guiding situation, makes for a big tip.
Yes, I understood the reasons for using a load releasing hitch. I just didn't see the reason for calling it anything other than a load releasing hitch and I especially didn't see the reason for using the word "anchor" in the term when it has nothing to do with the anchor. Rich's explanation though was completley sufficient - that using the term "contingency anchor" to refer to using a load releasing hitch to connect the main line to the anchor had become an established practice among some mountaineering guides.
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:41 PM
rambler-joe rambler-joe is offline
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releasable(contingency)anchor.

We have had some difficulty releasing the mule or hitches when tied below the munter. As a matter of course we now tie off the munter with two half hitches above the carabiner, around the anchor tapes, and then lock it off with a cliplock biner to the unused side of the rappel rope. With this system there is almost no load on the hitches and no chance of them getting jammed. On training courses EVERY rope is set up this way.
I have seen a lot of discussion about 'deadmans handles' or I think you might call it a 'macrame' knot. I have not been able to find a description, picture, of this knot anywhere. Can someone please help:confused:
RJ
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Old 11-21-2006, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler-joe
I have seen a lot of discussion about 'deadmans handles' or I think you might call it a 'macrame' knot. I have not been able to find a description, picture, of this knot anywhere. Can someone please help:confused:
RJ
Working on it ... See: Macrame
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Old 11-22-2006, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler-joe View Post
We have had some difficulty releasing the mule or hitches when tied below the munter. RJ

That's why the munter-mule on a carabiner is going the way of the dodo in European canyons. Too many problems with unlocking the contraption, getting the munter pinched off/blocked against some rock, feeding the rope... you name it.
In a clean test situation or in "ideal" spots there's not much of a problem, but... I rarely come across an "ideal setup" in a canyon !

Almost all switched to a fig. of 8 "loose on the rope", locked off and then used as a stopper against the anchor.

In case of emergency: clip one of your belay lines in the fig 8, pull on it a little with your weight while unlocking the thing (which is easy, because of the friction caused by the fig 8 before the lock-off hitch in the big eye of the 8). When it's unlocked you can pull the fig 8 nicely off the anchor to have a clean lowering situation.

I can try to post a picture but am sure Rich will do that in my place
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Old 11-22-2006, 12:52 PM
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I mentioned this issue in the article in our Canyon Techniques section.

It has only happened to me one time with some 8mm cord I use when I teach courses. It's never happened with any of my "real" canyoneering ropes. I believe it has something to do with the way the sheath is braided.

Problems with the rope against rock can occur whether you're using a munter/mule or a figure eight. I avoid it with my munter/mule by using a Stubai 3D carabiner. Even easier to avoid with my canyon quickdraw with a 3D carabiner on the bottom end.

There are pros and cons to any system, including using a figure 8 as a "contingency block" as Koen described. Personally, I don't like giving up my rappel device for the rigging at the anchor. But ... to each his own. Experiment with several different methods, pick your favorite and master it.

I do have photos I will be posting this evening to illustrate alternative contingency anchors.
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